Year

Color

Wheels

1946-1947
column shift

Pasture Green
(John Deere-like green)

Autumn Yellow (a bright yellow) wheel with a Pasture Green stripe

Harvest Tan
(dark tan, light brown )

Sunset Red (not red but a bright pumpkin orange) wheels with a American Black pinstripe

1946
non-column shift

Princeton Black
(aka American Black)

Period color ads show Princeton Black with either a Harvard Red or Sunset Red
wheels with a American Black stripe. I'm sure any of the wheel colors could
have been used with this color.

Normandy Blue
(real dark Navy Blue)

1. Autumn Yellow with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.
2. Sunset Red with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.

Michigan Yellow
(medium yellow)

1. Pasture Green with a Michigan Yellow stripe.
2. American Black with a Ivory stripe.
3. Sunset Red with a American Black stripe.

Harvard Red
(bright red)

1. Autumn Yellow with a Harvard Red stripe.
2. American Black with a Ivory Stripe.

1947

Princeton Black
(aka American Black)

Period color ads show Princeton Black with either a Harvard Red or Sunset Red
wheels with a American Black stripe. I'm sure any of the wheel colors could
have been used with this color.

Normandy Blue
(real dark Navy Blue)

1. Autumn Yellow with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.
2. Sunset Red with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.

Michigan Yellow
(medium yellow)

1. Pasture Green with a Michigan Yellow stripe.
2. American Black with a Ivory stripe.
3. Sunset Red with a American Black stripe.

Picket Gray
(dark gray)

Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe

Luzon Red
(maroonish red)

Universal Beige with a Luzon Red stripe

1948

Princeton Black
(aka American Black)

Period color ads show Princeton Black with either a Harvard Red or Sunset Red
wheels with a American Black stripe. I'm sure any of the wheel colors could
have been used with this color.

Normandy Blue
(real dark Navy Blue)

1. One was Autumn Yellow with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.
2. Sunset Red with a Normandy Blue or American Black stripe.

Michigan Yellow
(medium yellow)

1. Pasture Green with a Michigan Yellow stripe.
2. American Black with a Ivory stripe.
3. Sunset Red with a American Black stripe.

Picket Gray
(dark gray)

Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe

Luzon Red
(maroonish red)

Universal Beige with a Luzon Red stripe

Potomac Gray
(light gray)

1. Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe
2. American Black with a Ivory stripe.

1949

Princeton Black
(aka American Black)

Period color ads show Princeton Black with either a Harvard Red or Sunset Red
wheels with a American Black stripe. I'm sure any of the wheel colors could
have been used with this color.

Luzon Red
(maroonish red)

Universal Beige with a Luzon Red stripe

Potomac Gray
(light gray)

1. Harvard Red wheel with a American Black stripe
2. American Black with a Ivory stripe.

Emerald Green
(dark green)

??? Unknown at this time ???

Somewhere in there Olive Drab was added (probably 1946 or 1947 since it is
listed in the 1947 parts book). I would suspect it was for export models.

 From:(Todd Paisley)
 Subject: Re: [CJML] Striping Rims
 Date: Wed, 20 May 1998 16:47:05 -0400
 
 
 Some time ago someone asked about striping rims.
 Almost certainly early CJ striping was done by hand, or by a mechanically
 supported brush and you should be able to do a good job without a professional
 sign painter or pinstriper.
 The trick is to eliminate the possibility or your palsied hand ruining
 what is a fairly simple job. To do this you need the right materials:
 BRUSH: A commercial sign painters brush from a well stocked art supply
 store. These have rather long hairs (not bristles) at least 1 1/2 inches long.
 Their only function is to make a stripe of a given width. The hairs should
 come to a flat end (not a point). Test or have the clerk demonstrate the brush
 with water to make sure you are getting the right size stripe. Demand natural
 hairs (usually reddish brown). Cost = $8 - $12. A cheaper brush will seldom do
 the job well. (Some "pinstriping" brushes look like a pointed feather. These
 are special purpose brushes and are not appropriate for this job.)
 PAINT: exterior oil based enamel (the best quality). It should designate
 that is for brushing. You cannot brush successfully with paint mixed for
 spraying. (If your rims were painted professionally your painter may recommend
 another paint and thinner. The important thing is that you should be able to
 remove mistakes without disturbing the base color) The reasons I am
 recommending enamel is: 1. Enamel was used originally. 2. It dries slower than
 many paints and allows you to clean up mistakes. 3. If your rims were painted
 with one of the modern paints or lacquers it is safer to use a paint and
 thinner which will not disturb your base coat. The thinner for enamel is
 turpentine or a turpentine substitute which is a very mild solvent. Test any
 solvent on the back side of your rim making sure it has no effect on the base
 coat.
 RAGS: Cotton only (old T shirts washed many times. Makes them lint
 free).
 
 Now for practice: Jack up one wheel. Place a cement block on end about 2" away
 from location of the stripe to be. Holding your brush as close to straight
 down as possible (But in exactly the direction of the stripe-to-be at point of
 brush contact) and at roughly a 25 degree angle from your rim. Place the base
 of your hand on the cement block and have someone turn the wheel steadily as
 you move your brush into contact with the rim. Practice with water first and
 determine the angle of the brush and pressure best suited to get an even
 stripe. The rim should be turned as fast as possible without causing dripping.
 Never make or release contact with with the rim unless it is moving. (paint
 will work somewhat different (better) than water)
 The long hairs on the brush are somewhat frightening but are important.
 The brush needs to hold a fair amount of paint and if you can paint the stripe
 without going back for more you've got it made. Make sure to stroke the tip of
 your brush against the lip of the paint can to reduce possibility of
 dripping. If you are using enamel and find you cannot do the whole rim in one
 stroke you might try adding a small amount of boiled linseed oil to your
 paint. It will extend your line. (too much might make your paint transparent
 so be conservative.)
 
 Note: The paint can will tell you to slightly sand the surface to be painted.
 Bad idea. Unless you can sand exactly the stripe to be painted and then paint
 it without error the roughened surface will make it impossible to clean up
 mistakes and probably require you to repaint the whole rim. The surface to be
 painted must be absolutely free of dirt, oil, wax. Paint thinner is a good
 cleaner but the surface must be dry before painting.
 
 RULES:
 1. YOU WILL MAKE MISTAKES: Fold a clean rag into a pad, rotate the wheel, and
 gently twist your wrist exposing fresh cotton to the fresh paint to lift the
 paint from the rim. Change rags often because you want to remove paint not
 smear it. When paint is off, use small amount of thinner a the rag and repeat
 the process. Avoid heavy pressure and scrubbing. When clean follow with a dry
 rag to dry the surface.
 
 2. LESS IS MORE: If you painted a stripe successfully in ONE STROKE it isn't
 going to get any better than that. If it took TWO STROKES you'r lucky if there
 aren't some flaws. If THREE STROKES were needed you might consider doing it
 over because it probably won't look so hot. Successful striping "looks" like
 it was done in one stroke.
 
 3. WHEN JUDGING YOUR WORK BE AT LEAST THREE FEET AWAY: Nobody ever examines it
 from any closer anyway and any hand painted striping has some slight
 imperfections. Everything looks bad from up close... Ask your wife.
 
 4. IMPERFECTIONS ARE THE MARK OF THE HAND CRAFTSMAN. Take pride. It probably
 looks as good as the day it rolled out of the factory.
 __________________________________________________
 
 In Scotland I had the opportunity to observe a professional pinstriper work on
 a truck. His rag hand was just about as active as his brush hand. The results
 were beautiful, not perfect.
 
 Final notes:
 1.If you want to give it a second coat let it dry a couple of days before
 doing it. That way you can remove errors without destroying your first coat
 2. Clean your brush in paint thinner, then Ivory Soap and water, dry with
 paper towel, let air dry completely and store somepace where the hairs won't
 get distorted.
 3. If you had your CJ professionally painted go to him for advise.
 4. IMPERFECTIONS ARE THE MARK OF THE HAND CRAFTSMAN. Take pride. It probably
 looks as good as the day it rolled out of the factory.
 
 Thin or imperfect lines duplicate what came from the factory. Some of the
 lines were horrible looking. Paint was thin in some areas and had runs.
 Standards right after the war were not very good. Since it was a seller's
 market, they didn't much care. In one of the Engineering Release Forms, it
 shows that Willys decided at one point not to prime the bodies and just
 throw a coat of paint on the Jeeps. The dealers complained the finish was
 so bad that they forced Willys to prime the bodies again.
 
 
 Todd Paisley